Multiplex OBD or M-OBD is an OBD variant protocol used by Toyota, prior to OBD-II. J1850 – Defines a serial. OBD to RS232 Interpreter. Programming Serial Numbers. ALDLdroid is an application for OBD1 GM. You will have to copy your ADX file to the ADX directory of the ALDLdroid folder on the external storage of.
Pin Signal Description 2 J1850 Bus+ 4 CGND Chassis ground 5 SGND Signal ground 6 CAN High J-2284 7 K-LINE (ISO 9141-2 and ISO/DIS 14230-4) 10 J1850 Bus- 13 TC Timing check - ignition advance angle adjustment or ABS slow codes out 14 CAN Low J-2284 15 ISO 9141-2 L-LINE (ISO 9141-2 and ISO/DIS 14230-4) 16 +12v Battery power Toyota OBD-2 compatibility list Note that list is not 100% complete!
Home > software >obd2 scan tool software >obd1. Nissan and Toyota OBD I. Each has a good interface. OBD1 vehicles are not supported because OBD1 was not standardized. A Simple Serial Data Interface for OBD-I Compliant General Motors Vehicles. Toyota DLC, Chrysler, Nissan. TOYOTA 22pin to 16pin OBD1 to OBD2 Connect.
Ask, and you shall receive! Are you guys ready? It started with some internet research on communicating with jdm ecu's and the protocols they use. Apparently, even though they have the same plug, they are not obd compliant. As the research contined, I found a guy who had found a way to get his import 2jz with vvti to work and I thought there is no reason why this wouldn't work also work for us. So, I should preface this by saying that this will not make your car readable by emissions testers where it would otherwise fail, but gives you, the end user, the control. For $28 you can have this fully operational Step 1: go out and buy an OBD2 Bluetooth adapter.
In this case, the one I purchased was this one from Amazon the Bafx PIC18F2480 - (Step 2: Purchase the 5$ app 'Torque Pro' from the google play market for Android. (For you apple guys, the App Store does not have this exact app on there so I am unsure if any of the steps after this are valid) Any android powered tablet or phone should work here. Step 3: Inside of the app you can create car profiles for different vehicles (This app is incredible and is by far the most useful thing I've ever bought as an app because this app and the adapter can be used on ANY obd2 car) In the vehicle profile at the bottom of the profile page is a line that says Very Advanced ELM327. There is a line in that section to add text.
The following text should be added to that line: ATIB 96 n ATIIA 13 n ATSH8213F0 n ATSP4 n 0100 Once that is complete, hit SAVE and go back into the app. The app is now configured to see the JDM ecu's (that code changed the searching frequencies and some other protocol stuff in the app to be able to read the JDM ecu's) With the app configured and your OBD 2 adapter plugged into the port on your car, you can now read all of you engine data with the the Torque app.
Insert vehicle parameters to get HP and TQ estimations, Fuel economy, timing advancement, speed, the list goes on (really really nice app) There is also a check engine light portion of this app where you can scan the ECU for codes so it becomes a scan tool as well. Evidence of it working (So, are we to the point where we can pass emissions testers? But we can better troubleshoot our cars, and even do some rudimentary tuning because the possibilities of the app are INCREDIBLE. Add A/F ratio stuff you name it.
Obd1 Toyota Trouble Codes
Hope this works as well for you fellas as it does me! YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING MEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!! Guys, I was text-bombing Richee3 the other day about the OBDLink MX box I just bought.shows a heck of a lot of info from the ECU, that is, from my little '98 Tacoma. So I go 'well I wonder if it can read the JDM OBD from our BEAMS ECUs' That answers that!! No more being the test bunny with that one!! Awesome stuff guys, seriously. Edit: by the way, with the OBDLink MX, I'm using the OBDLink app from the Google Play store, which is free & does everything the Torque app does.
YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING MEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!! Guys, I was text-bombing Richee3 the other day about the OBDLink MX box I just bought.shows a heck of a lot of info from the ECU, that is, from my little '98 Tacoma. So I go 'well I wonder if it can read the JDM OBD from our BEAMS ECUs' That answers that!! No more being the test bunny with that one!! Awesome stuff guys, seriously.
Edit: by the way, with the OBDLink MX, I'm using the OBDLink app from the Google Play store, which is free & does everything the Torque app does. I'm glad you like this! LOl thought it might be good to contribute something useful haha. But it doesn't quite do 'everything' the torque PRO app does,but isn't it just nice to have it working!?I've been trying everything out haha. I'm glad you like this! LOl thought it might be good to contribute something useful haha.
But it doesn't quite do 'everything' the torque PRO app does,but isn't it just nice to have it working!?I've been trying everything out haha Yes indeed, I was getting eager to try it on my BEAMS'd ST184 Celica, seeing as I wouldn't be seeing the car any time soon. You mention the Torque app, is it because it can calcute horsepower & 0-60mph figures? So far it has been displaying everything I need to know from my 1998 Tacoma. I used it because I could edit the elm327, log data, do rough hp calculations, instant fuel economy, gauges inmany forms, eco driving trainer, and because it is tablet installable. So when I go to install a tablet as the head unit.voila! I also plan on using the gauges in mph because the stock beams gauges are kph and I get tired of converting in my head as I drive.
I first saw the app on Spikes horsepower tv about a year and a half ago. Seems legit so far. For 5 bucks its the real deal. Good buddy of mine is doing the tablet route too.it was bc of him I decided to order one for my hillbillytruck, and eventually trying a test on the BEAMS. You've been the test bunny now so I know it will work. I got data logging from the app too.
I think if you buy the OBDLink official device, the app is free from the market, instead of a few $. With a few taps I got rough HP figures as well. Not something to hang your cap by, they can be seriously off at times.good'un all around tho! You have to buy a scanner that supports JOBD Aside from that, it's 4 wires that you need. SIL from the ecu, 2 grounds and 1 power. Can be switched or constant.
Do you happen to know what the pin locations are on the OBD plug itself? Edit: is pin #2 the SIL? I know pin #16 is the +12v from battery, and ground wires shouldn't be hard to identify.so I guess the only sticking point would be which one the SIL/data pin should be.
The J1850 positive signal charge wire = SIL? I'll assume the J1850 negative side is just a ground wire? Double-edit: the SIL pin is the K-line, isn't it? Triple-edit: 4 & 5 are ground, 16 is direct to battery +12v, and pin 7 = SIL (which is the ISO K-line I presume?). All that correct or am I missing something? Since its already bumped. I just got a wifi OBD device (they don't make a bluetooth one for iPhone or macs.) Unfortunately it doesn't work.
I am however using it with our isF and my truck. Just wish it would recognize the JOBD protocol.
That might just be a matter of switching protocols some way or another.since it does work with your other vehicles. You may need to bomb around and figure out what switches you need in order to get some readable signal. Not sure if your WiFi OBD too will allow it, or the app. Might be something similar to the original post describing the switches. Btw, you have an ISF? Why bother with anything else still if you have an ISF to play with. That might just be a matter of switching protocols some way or another.since it does work with your other vehicles.
You may need to bomb around and figure out what switches you need in order to get some readable signal. Not sure if your WiFi OBD too will allow it, or the app. Might be something similar to the original post describing the switches.
Btw, you have an ISF? Why bother with anything else still if you have an ISF to play with.
LOL the future wife drives the F. Lol I play with it sometimes. I have quite a few toys actually. I just like my beams because it just makes a good daily for me, I enjoy it.
I have lots of time between races so everything gets bothered with haha. I'm pretty quiet about my other cars, trucks, and other go fast vehicles (I may be writing about one on here soon when its done).;) Anyways back to business. I have pin 4 as the chassis ground, pin 5 as the signal ground (ecu ground), pin 7 as the SIL (yes its the K line), and pin 15 as the (L line but i think its optional and doesn't go on the beams but I have it pinned just in case), then pin 16 is power (ran this to the circuit main relay so it turns off the wifi device rather than having to open the trunk and unplug it when I turn off the car). I've tried a couple different apps on my iPhone and got a really nice on for my MacBook Pro but nothing so far. Will keep playing with it though.
Puretone did you get the injector #'s I sent you? AHHHH found how to switch the protocol. Does anyone have any idea what the protocol is? I can't find anything called JOBD which is what I've noticed people call it. I'd suggest you bother ricochet1490 about this one.as per his previous post (would suggest he knows way more about this than anybody here.
It is probably between the ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230 standards.both use the K-line. ELM232, ELM327 or ELM329.
Check out the commandline switches he used. As far as I can tell pin 4 & 5 are.always.
ground. It looks like you can get away with not even connecting pin 5.I'm a bit foggy, but does the RedTop OBD port even have a populated pin 5?
Pin 7 is obvious. Pin 15 is a bit of a mystery.seems like it is not required. It is the the 'low' end of the K-line. I hazard a guess that it is probably referring to 'low frequency', as all 3 protocols suggest that they have positive and negative charge side. So BUS +/-, K-line & L-line, CANBUS +/.
That pin is empty on the RedTop OBD plug, isn't it? Pin 16, you better connect that sommabitch back directly to the battery positive terminal! As far as the OBD specs go, this pin.should. always have power on it, regardless if the ignition/accessories is on or not. I believe what you are doing here is pulling the power from the ECU when the car is fully turned off.when in reality it should always be connected. Correct me if I'm wrong here guys, but if this is the case, then you are effectively resetting the ECU each time you switch the car off.
I've noticed some obd2 ports wired with constant power, and some with switched power. My Saturn and wife's old Honda are on switched power. When making a harness, I always wire to constant power for pin16. This is what the diagram specifies.
When getting people to add the feature to my old harnesses, I tell them to hook pin 16 to the switch voltage power wire I put in all my beams and gen4 harnesses for a tach adapter. Just do that, ground 4 and 5 to the firewall, and pin pin 11 to 7 on the obd2 connector. You have to pick your scanner carefully.
JOBD isn't just supported. Used to be totally unsupported in US scanners when I first looked at this 4-5 years ago. From what I could tell from diagrams it seemed that pin 16 ran to the constant power of the ECU. So if you've got it wired separate, you'd avoid the whole ECU reset conundrum.
I noticed while I had the OBDLink MX connected to my USDM Tacotruck, it would remain powered up night & day.which drained the battery a bit. From the diagrams it looks I'll need to wire pin 16 it separately if I'd want to cut power to it when the engine is switched off. A simple toggle switch would not work in this case. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk.
From what I could tell from diagrams it seemed that pin 16 ran to the constant power of the ECU. So if you've got it wired separate, you'd avoid the whole ECU reset conundrum. I noticed while I had the OBDLink MX connected to my USDM Tacotruck, it would remain powered up night & day.which drained the battery a bit. From the diagrams it looks I'll need to wire pin 16 it separately if I'd want to cut power to it when the engine is switched off.
A simple toggle switch would not work in this case. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk I don't understand why a switch wouldn't work? You just wire a switch in between the power source and the pin 16. That will cut the power to the pin powering down the device its plugged to.
All your doing is keeping the power from going to the pin and completing the circuit which would power the device. I just hooked mine to the circuit main relay because my OBD plug is in the trunk and its a pain to unplug a data logger after a run right away (and I'll usually forget about it). Its power wire isn't the same as the ECU, just off the relay that kills power (circuit main relay) when the key is turned off (kind of like a switch you could say). Nothing has changed on my ECU wiring besides the L line pin. Only time that the ECU should be connected to that power wire in any way is when a device is plugged in. When theres no power going to the Pin 16 its as if nothing is plugged in.
Also I looked at the ECU wiring. On the MR2 the 12V is switched off the circuit main relay. There is a constant coming in as well though I believe.
Am I right on this? Hey guys, a question for the people who've got this working well, on an engine that's running nicely. I'm using an Altezza TPS, on a Redtop beams motor. However, when I look in the program it shows the TPS range varies from 16% open through to 65% open, when I go from completely shut to completely open. Is that about the range it should be expecting to see, or is my TPS working through a different resistance range than it should be?
I've been having problems with the idle being a bit rubbish, which is most likely on account of the motor thinking the thottle is 25% open when it isnt. Tweaking the angle of the TPS my idle reduces from 1500rpm to 800rpm. If anyone can post up their TPS% values for when throttle is open and shut, would appreciate it! Hi all Ive just bought a OBD2 scanner from Amazon I have a Beams Red Top with an OBD2 port but it will not connect to the ECU.? I have downloaded Torque Pro for android. In the adapter status option it says no connection to ecu and also Adapter error count is reading 8.?
What am i doing wrong? Thanks This will not work for Japanese Vehicles.
That's because Japs have their own protocol. The only scan tools I know that supports Japanese Protocols are these ones 6asc%3D3519%26meid%3Db333213c14c348ac908 543ad23215a3a%26pid%3D100022%26prg%3D351 9%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D50 Hi all Ive just bought a OBD2 scanner from Amazon I have a Beams Red Top with an OBD2 port but it will not connect to the ECU.? I have downloaded Torque Pro for android. In the adapter status option it says no connection to ecu and also Adapter error count is reading 8.?
What am i doing wrong? Thanks All the instructions are on thefirst page. You have to put the line of code into torque soit scans thecorrect baud or whatever for the Jdm ecu. This will not work for Japanese Vehicles.
That's because Japs have their own protocol. The only scan tools I know that supports Japanese Protocols are these ones 6asc%3D3519%26meid%3Db333213c14c348ac908 543ad23215a3a%26pid%3D100022%26prg%3D351 9%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D50 this is incorrect. Follow the Instructions in the Thread and torque will work like a champ. I use it every time I hop in the RHD Celica. Hi all Ive just bought a OBD2 scanner from Amazon I have a Beams Red Top with an OBD2 port but it will not connect to the ECU.? I have downloaded Torque Pro for android.
In the adapter status option it says no connection to ecu and also Adapter error count is reading 8.? What am i doing wrong? Thanks You're prolly doing something wrong.
If your adapter has the option / or the Android app has the option, set it to auto-detect/auto-select/auto-check.or whatever it happens to be called.so it tries all protocols. So far most of us have had instant success.Updated -This will not work for Japanese Vehicles. That's because Japs have their own protocol. The only scan tools I know that supports Japanese Protocols are these ones 6asc%3D3519%26meid%3Db333213c14c348ac908 543ad23215a3a%26pid%3D100022%26prg%3D351 9%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D50 You are way off base. Yes JDM Toyota's have/had their very of protocols.but this wave of new Bluetooth OBD scan-tool dongles seem to be shipped, generally, with all possible OBD protocols 'pre-installed' I have an OBDLink MX Bluetooth dongle and can confirm 000000000% that it is working, reads everything just fine and can clear all codes too. Bonus: it does also, of course, work for my USDM car.and can confirm it works perfectly for our European (EUDM) market Toyota LandCruiser.
I have had it plugged into the Middle Eastern market Toyota Zelas (Scion TC) as well, worked instantly there too. I know the chances are very slim, but any chance anybody has got this to work with OBD1 and Torque?
Even if it involves adapters, splicing things, etc. I've got an android head unit and this would really top off the car. What on earth are you trying to read from an ECU of the OBD1 era?? Kinda pointless. It will probably involve some sort of adapter plug. Are you just posting in this section of the forum, because we have been posting about these Bluetooth dongles or do you actually own a BEAMS engine too? ^Well to not sound like an ass, ODB1 ecu are too stupid to supply any kind of serial data.
So gen 3 and bellow need not apply to this tread and very exclusive to gen4 + beams or mz/gz v6's Not so fast. Toyota, like Honda (and I think Nissan too) has serial Data output on most of their OBD1 ECU's.
The thing is, there has been very few to ever try to bother to figure it out (at least for Toyota's output). Since Serial Data output was NOT required per OBD1 standards, Manufactures were free to output the data however they chose for their own purposes if they chose to make use of it. There as a Russian Company several years ago who figured out Toyota's Data Stream and put out a product (software) to read / make sense of it but they are not longer around (to the best of my knowledge) and the software was in Russian nonetheless. What on earth are you trying to read from an ECU of the OBD1 era??
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Kinda pointless. It will probably involve some sort of adapter plug. Are you just posting in this section of the forum, because we have been posting about these Bluetooth dongles or do you actually own a BEAMS engine too? Replying because my USDM gen2 3sgte is still OBD1 and I'd absolutely love to be able to use Torque on my android head unit in my car.Updated -There as a Russian Company several years ago who figured out Toyota's Data Stream and put out a product (software) to read / make sense of it but they are not longer around (to the best of my knowledge) and the software was in Russian nonetheless. I knew that there had to have been something by now.
It's 20 years old and the community for Toyota sports cars is humongous. It's a shame it was only in Russian. Edit: Actually, CJ, thank you so much for giving me something a bit more search friendly (Toyota Data Stream). I found a wiki, not sure how well it'll pan out, but it's at least mentioning Russian software!
By the way, were you at the Lakeland meet? Replying because my USDM gen2 3sgte is still OBD1 and I'd absolutely love to be able to use Torque on my android head unit in my car.Updated -I knew that there had to have been something by now. It's 20 years old and the community for Toyota sports cars is humongous. It's a shame it was only in Russian. Edit: Actually, CJ, thank you so much for giving me something a bit more search friendly (Toyota Data Stream).
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I found a wiki, not sure how well it'll pan out, but it's at least mentioning Russian software! By the way, were you at the Lakeland meet? Yeah, There's probably been more development into since then. I know some MKIII Supra Guys were at one point working on some to read the data stream on the 7m and 1jz ecu's but dont know what ever came of it.
Yeah, the Wife, son and I were at the meet for a little while. We were actually there waiting on people to show up.
We didn't say long (only until about 1:302:00) cause it was to hot for my son plus we didn't have either of the TWO's there cause mine doesn't have AC and her's went out that morning (of all times) and with the heat, I didn't want to have to have my son ride back in a hot car after being out in the heat as it was so we just went in our family car. Replying because my USDM gen2 3sgte is still OBD1 and I'd absolutely love to be able to use Torque on my android head unit in my car.Updated -I knew that there had to have been something by now. It's 20 years old and the community for Toyota sports cars is humongous. It's a shame it was only in Russian. Edit: Actually, CJ, thank you so much for giving me something a bit more search friendly (Toyota Data Stream). I found a wiki, not sure how well it'll pan out, but it's at least mentioning Russian software!
By the way, were you at the Lakeland meet? That's what I figured was going on. You are in totally the wrong section of this message board dude.this here is the Red/Grey/BackTop BEAMS section. Either way, if you.COULD. be able to read any of the OBD1 output in some way or fashion, somehow have it translated on the fly so some sort of OBD-plugged Bluetooth device read & transmit it to some sort of Torque-esque application on your iPhone/iPod/Android.you'd still end up with possibly nothing to display, given the nature of the OBD1 serial data streams.
You see, OBD1 standards did some variously variable serial data output that was tailored to whatever the manufacturer felt it needed. There wasn't much homogenous standards until OBD2 came around.at least as far as serial data output is concerned. Hence my 'what on earth are you trying to read from an ECU of the OBD1 era'. Moreover, the specs also varied wildly between the same car model & their respective destination markets. If you wish to read any geeky real-time data from your OBD1 ECU/Engine/Setup, then go with something like Zeitronix. OBD1 spec just does not output anything useful (very limited at that) for an app/Bluetooth dongle, to display on a mobile device.
So question then. I (now regretfully) let my OBDII plug + wiring go with the halfcut because at the time I didnt see a way that I would be able to wire it in to my car and get anything out of it. Do you think the actual OBDII plug would be unique to the Beams engine or might I be able to scavenge one from say a Supra and then wire it in on my car?
Maybe with a few pin relocations? I've used one from a Mitsubishi (model was 1997 Something Dreary Deluxe), and from a handful of different Toyotas ranging between Camry's & Corollas. Very easy to do really, it is just a ground wire, a +12V wire directly to the battery & a SIL wire from the ECU. Just make sure the SIL pin is in the correct like action on the OBD2 plug. For all you gen2/3 guys, there's a chap based in Canada who sells the software to read obd1 via an android app, there's just been a huuuge GB on the mr2oc.co.uk. It looks good too.
Time to sound really snobby & overly cool: we are outside of the Gen2/Gen3 range! If we could be considered Gen-specific, it would be Gen4/Gen5, but of the non-turbo sector. One thing tho, what/how does that transmit anything? I'm assuming a special OBD1 dongle was made? Also, what on earth useful data would come from it?
Other than trouble codes etc, does the OBD1 ECU actually allow for 'normalized' and real-time data output for stuff like boost PSI? Time to sound really snobby & overly cool: we are outside of the Gen2/Gen3 range! If we could be considered Gen-specific, it would be Gen4/Gen5, but of the non-turbo sector. One thing tho, what/how does that transmit anything? I'm assuming a special OBD1 dongle was made? Also, what on earth useful data would come from it?
Other than trouble codes etc, does the OBD1 ECU actually allow for 'normalized' and real-time data output for stuff like boost PSI? See above link, you can pretty much read most things by the looks of it:) Can you link me to this? I can't find it on that forum, but I'm also on a basic account. Edit: Is it this thread? If so, why didn't he post this in the GB forum?! Oh well, at least I think I found it.
That's the one, no idea why it wasn't in the GB forum, it might be that it didn't start off as a group buy but rather him showing what he had managed to get hold of, then he had so much interest it turned into a GB:). I am having a hard time getting this to work on my Beams. My adaptor and Torque app work in my US cars. I have power to pin 16 on the ALDL.
I have tried it with ground hooked up to pin 4 only and pin 4 and 5 together. The yellow SIL wire from pin 7 of the dark grey connector goes to pin 7 on the ALDL. There is continuity all the way through to pin 11 at the ECU. I think I all of the spaces and slashes are in the right spot in the code. The adaptor pairs with the phone, but the ECU wont communicate with the app. Does the SIL wire really go to ALDL pin 7? Any help from the guys who have this working would be great.
I wanted to know what protocol is used by the 98-01 Altezza 3SGE Beams 'Blacktop' with Manual Transmission. I have it swapped in my '73 Mark II and its MIL isnt turning off. I have a feeling that it has got something to do with the MAF and/or O2 sensor but i want to check for the proper error codes to be sure. The wiring for the engine didn't come with the OBDII port so i am going to install that and i need to know the protocol to do the connections as im guessing the connections are based on the protocols used by the ECU for that engine. Also could someone suggest a tested scan tool that actually works with the Blacktop's ECU? I am having a hard time getting this to work on my Beams.
My adaptor and Torque app work in my US cars. I have power to pin 16 on the ALDL.
I have tried it with ground hooked up to pin 4 only and pin 4 and 5 together. The yellow SIL wire from pin 7 of the dark grey connector goes to pin 7 on the ALDL. There is continuity all the way through to pin 11 at the ECU.
I think I all of the spaces and slashes are in the right spot in the code. The adaptor pairs with the phone, but the ECU wont communicate with the app. Does the SIL wire really go to ALDL pin 7?
Any help from the guys who have this working would be great. Did you modify the app per the instructions on the first page? -Updated -Hi. I wanted to know what protocol is used by the 98-01 Altezza 3SGE Beams 'Blacktop' with Manual Transmission.
I have it swapped in my '73 Mark II and its MIL isnt turning off. I have a feeling that it has got something to do with the MAF and/or O2 sensor but i want to check for the proper error codes to be sure.
The wiring for the engine didn't come with the OBDII port so i am going to install that and i need to know the protocol to do the connections as im guessing the connections are based on the protocols used by the ECU for that engine. Also could someone suggest a tested scan tool that actually works with the Blacktop's ECU?
Don't know about installing your OBD2 port, but the first page of this thread tells you how to read the ECU. Those instructions work for any of the JDM ecus. It's safe to say that, if I pick up this: OBDLink MX Bluetooth - And follow instructions in this thread to wire in this: OBDII Port Harness - Female - purchase/download the Torque app, and use 'ATIB 96 n ATIIA 13 n ATSH8213F0 n ATSP4 n 0100' as a definition line within the app, then. Bcc flicker fixer free download.
Everything should work properly.?